It’s a single pearl set among dozens of diamonds but despite that sparkling competition, it still shines. And now it’s added a new chapter to its history. For this pearl is part of a brooch that was given to the Royal Family in times of war in the hope that it would always be used by queens. And the decision of Queen Camilla to wear it on day one of the first Royal Ascot of her husband’s reign has fulfilled that wish once more.
The brooch in question is an unusual creation designed to look like a scallop shell. The pearl plays a very important part for it sits, nestled in the heart of the glittering shell, as if it were growing in the safety of its walls. Amongst the pave cut diamonds and intricate diamond drops that descend from the brooch, the pearl is alone but all the more striking for that.
This rather creative piece of jewellery was owned by an artist and writer, Winifred Hope Thomson. However, it was the work of her brother, Lord Courtauld Thomson, a successful businessman and philanthropist. He designed it around 1918, just as the First World War was coming to an end. As the Second World War entered its last phase, Winifred decided to give the brooch to Queen Elizabeth, later The Queen Mother, as a ‘mark of respect.’
However, there was another motive. Like the famous Mrs Greville before her, Winifred hoped that this present would mean that her family’s gems would turn into royal jewels. Her other wartime wish was that the brooch would always be worn by queens. As the 21st century began, this desire was fulfilled.
The Queen Mother owned the brooch throughout her life. When she died, in 2002, it passed to her daughter, Queen Elizabeth II. Her Late Majesty was rather fond of it and wore it to Ascot herself. It’s a rather appropriate gem for that famous festival as it is usually held in June and the brooch features that month’s birthstone with that pearl.
Queen Camilla has now honoured Winifred’s wish once more. Her Majesty chose the brooch for the first day of Royal Ascot 2023 with the pretty pearl and dazzling diamonds coming into view for the first time as the royal procession appeared. It was also a poignant tribute to Queen Elizabeth II who loved Ascot and horse racing so much.
The brooch, often called the Courtauld-Thomson after the man who created it, is an unusual and striking piece of jewellery. But far more interesting is its history which has now seen three queens wear a sparkling shell whose star is that solitary pearl.
